Day 11: On to Czech Republic

Hops Plantations

This morning we said goodbye to Krakow and boarded the bus for a four-hour drive through southern Poland and Moravia, the southern region of Czech Republic. We noticed the infrastructure becoming more modern, and the architecture and layout of towns becoming more familiar to our Western eyes as we crossed the border. We passed by several power plants (coal) and farmland cultivated and ready for spring planting. The Czechs are known for their expertise in brewing beer, and the trellises of hops were a familiar sight to some of us and not so familiar to others.

We ascended into rolling hills as we approached the city of Roznov Pod Radhostem, where we stopped for our first Czech meal before visiting the Wallachian Open Air Museum. Czech meals always have one thing in common – dumplings. Made from flour or potatoes, dumplings are a staple accompaniment to every meal. After our lunch of venison, dumplings and gravy, a local guide led us through the “Little Wooden Town”, which preserves the buildings and furniture of local life from as far back as the 13^th Century. 

For lunch venison, dumplings and gravy

A local craftsman demonstrated some of the traditional skills still used to create whetstones, knives, wooden toys, and items hewn from horn.

We boarded the bus for a second time and made our way to Brno, the capital of the Moravia region. Here we were fortunate to share dinner with guests that included American embassy staff Michael Henney, Agriculture Attaché for Central Europe and the Baltics; Jana Mikulasova, Agricultural Specialist; and Jolanta Figurska, Senior Marketing Specialist. We were also joined by California wine importer Chris Kohlwes and Czech financial consultant Jan Ecer.

Michael Henney shares his experiences with members of Class 41
Photo by Steve Knudsen

Our guests graciously answered our questions about agricultural markets, barriers to trade, immigration, land ownership, how each of the countries we have visited have responded differently to opportunities presented by the EU, and the challenges that come with these opportunities.

Matthew Fisher, Juan Guzman, Stephanie Tillman  

Day 10: Final day in Poland

Day started with Dr. Piotr Tomczyk, Dean of Fuels and Energy faculty at AGH University of science and technology. Vice Rektor (President) George Lis gave us an overview of the university and it's various faculties. AGH has over 35,000 students and has its roots cemented in the mining and metallurgy industries in Poland.  Dr. Tomczyk, highly regarded in Europe for his understanding and expertise on energy related matters, explained what AGH's focus and objectives are with regards to fuel and energy.  Though Poland has over 200 years worth of coal reserves, the University is working with global companies towards developing cleaner burning fuels in accordance with the European Union Road Map 2050. 

After a short break the class re-grouped and boarded the bus.  We traveled about an hour out of Krakow to the former concentration camps known as Auschwitz and Birkenau.  We all expected to feel deep emotions, and that they may overcome us, but even then we were not prepared for what we would see or feel.  After meeting up with our tour guide, we reluctantly walked out into the heavy falling snow.  As we approached the front gate, we paused for a few minutes to observe the cynicism of the words over the main gate, "Arbeit macht frei", which means "work makes (one) free".  

The tour led us through various buildings that housed the former prisoners. From their first arrival to daily life as a prisoner, each room told a story about life in the concentration camp.  The incredible volume of personal artifacts initially discovered at the camp, some of which are on display, depict the mass extermination that took place there.  Each pair of shoes, glasses, toothbrush, or lock of hair represents an individual life.  There were also various images showing how the Nazi's used fear and intimidation to control the prisoners.  After the housing facilities we walked in to the first gas chamber.  Walking through these doors and seeing the scratching on the walls of those who were murdered here made those previously mentioned emotions unravel. 

Our synthesis following the day was honest and raw.  The group was deeply impacted for both the good and bad of what we've seen in Poland.  There was a general theme of tolerance and the need to cultivate healthy relationships amongst people.  Several examples of hatred in the distant and recent past and some even occurring now were discussed in light of what we just saw today.  We observed how the Polish people embrace tolerance and are a great example of mutual respect regardless of their differences.  In summation, a few of our Foundation staff left us with the following quotes:  "Don't be ignorant; be lifelong learners."  "Stand up for what is right even in the small things."  

By:  Joey Mendonca, Todd Snider, Matt Fisher

Day 9: A Journey From Small Farms to Deep Underground

After indulging in the history and culture of Krakow yesterday, we began today with a visit to the Agriculture Advisory Center (CDR), where Class 41 was treated to a series of speakers teaching us about various agencies who support farmers in the state of Malopolska, where Krakow is located. The Center's mission is to raise agricultural income for farmers, enhance the market competitiveness of agricultural holdings, support sustainable development of rural areas and to produce professional agricultural advisors, agricultural school teachers and provide training in best practices, changing regulation and production techniques. Class 41 Fellows heard from the state Director of Agriculture, Environmental Production and Planning. We also heard from the President of the Small Agriculture Chamber, and the Director of a seed research station. These speakers talked about the structure of local government, the transition from a centralized government system under communism to a decentralized government system responsible to Poland and the EU. They discussed types of farming systems in the state, challenges facing agriculture and measures they are taking to develop local agricultural production.

Some of the interesting facts we learned include: 90% of farms in this area are small farms of less than 5 hectares; There is a limit on individual land ownership of 300 hectares per family, which is the maximum allowed for subsidies under the EU; Food produced locally is also consumed locally and most farmers have other sources of income; Organic farming is the dominant farming system and this is a source of pride. However, the number of farms has shrunk by 25% over the last 8 years. This farmland has been taken out of production, but the land is not sold. It is kept as a potential investment.

Among the many speakers this morning, we heard from a dynamic young couple who own a company that recycles waste from the production of juices.  Left over pulp is taken to their factory where it is dried thoroughly.  The resulting powders are rich in pectin and nutrients.  This dried pulp is used in teas, animal feed, cooking and medicines.  They are also drying cherry pits for use in therapeutic pillows.  This couple represents innovation and entrepreneurship - a new model for Polish agriculture.  At the same time, they expressed frustrations we can all relate to.  It took a full two years  to receive the necessary permits to go into business after they secured funding and a factory.

In the evening we hiked 400 feet down into an unforgettable World Heritage Site. For nearly 700 years, the Wieliczka salt mine has driven the economy of Southern Poland. Underground, there are carvings from solid blocks of salt made by miners to commemorate their hard work, resilience and to mark important secular and religious occasions. There are cathedral sized rooms in the salt mine with carved statues and wall carvings. It was simply beautiful.

Elisabeth Silva, Stuart Mast and Ali Elhassan
Photos by Steve Knudsen

International Seminar Day 8 - Exploring Krakow

Our first full day in Krakow started off with a walking tour of this beautiful city.

The tour started out at the Main Market Square. This square is huge, measuring out 200 meters by 200 meters, which is larger than the Red Square in Moscow. With 25% of the Krakow population being university students this square is famous for night life, concerts and other events that can draw crowds up to 200,000 people.

We learned about the university system that has always been publicly funded and has educated some of the world\'s greatest leaders like Pope John Paul II and Copernicus.

World War II was a very tough time for many in Poland, especially the highly educated. The Nazi's looked at the people of Poland as simple workers, so the highly educated (professors, priests, doctors, etc.) were sent to camps in an effort to suppress the working class and to demonstrate to the population the educated were not needed. After the war these schools bounced back and once again they are turning out some of the world's best doctors, lawyers, artists, etc.

As with all of our stops so far, religion plays a huge role here in Krakow. We visited many amazing churches including St. Florian's, the Wawel Cathedral and St. Mary's Basilica. Since day 8 was Sunday, many fellows attended mass with the local residents at one of these historical treasures.

Our journey then took us up Wawel Hill where we walked through the Royal Castle. Here we saw some of the most famous tapestries and some truly unbelievable artifacts, in addition to learning about Krakow's legendary dragon.

We ended our afternoon at Schindler's factory which contrasted our morning walk as tourist enjoying the views to now getting a true look at the tragedies that took place from 1939 to 1945, the Nazi occupation. This period of time for Poland is an extreme example of leadership gone awry. Yet in the face of this holocaust, a man that started out with a plan to exploit the Jews for his gain ended up using his profits to save over 1,100 people.

Despite the eventual victory of the Allies over Nazi Germany, Poland did not gain it's independence, but instead fell under the control of Stalin\'s Communist Russia. The leadership of Lech Walesa united the country to form the first non-communist party, which eventually lead to his presidency and Poland's independence.

The extremes of leadership that this county has endured not only tested and proved the resilience of its people, but also demonstrates the impact that one person can have on the lives of millions of people. This day showed the class yet another example that leadership should never be taken lightly.

By Rick Burnes, David Shabazian and Steven Knudsen

Photos by Steven Knudsen

Day 7 – Traveling West

We began our seventh day of the international trip aboard a train crossing Ukraine into the country of Poland.  All of the fellows shared close quarters for nearly 18 hours.  The experience of this trip has been life changing and with great lessons in patience.  

As the countryside passed by, the class could view the beautiful landscape and people from our cabins.  We were all struck by the obvious contrast between the Ukrainian and Polish countryside. There appears to be an obvious prosperity gap occurring between the two countries. This may be due to different government leaderships in emerging democracies. We are excited to explore this theory in our upcoming sessions in Poland.

 

We arrived in the town of Krakow in late afternoon and were promptly whisked away to our hotel; where a well deserved shower and change of clothes were in order.  The class had a wonderful dinner that consisted of a traditional Polish mushroom soup and grilled chicken.  Along with sharing stories of our trip, the class celebrated Liz Silvas' birthday.  Happy birthday Liz!!

Submitted by:

Dan Rodrigues   Matt Toste   Matt Lohse

Day 6 – Historical, Social and Political Issues of Ukraine

Our day started with a visit to an orphanage. We were hosted by director Elena and deputy director Victoria. They provided us with a tour of their facility. This facility is very clean, the girls are very well taken care of, and they participate in state, national, and international arts and sports competitions. The state provides for operating expenses and the basic needs of the girls but the orphanage also depends on the support of non profit organizations. Our class donated art supplies as well as 450 lbs of fresh fruit to the orphanage. The females in our group received a handmade pin cushion from the girls working on their needle point.

We then took the bus to the Chernobyl Museum. We were given a one hour tour by Andrew, our guide. Documentation of the devastation was overwhelming and the photos and the videos in the museum left us with a long lasting impression of the catastrophe.

In the afternoon we visited the Pecherska Lavra, which is a Ukrainian Orthodox historical and sacred holy center. There are several churches dating from the 10th century that were occupied and several destroyed by the Germans during WWII and then recently rebuilt.  In addition, there is an extensive underground cave system that was used by monks over a thousand years ago. There are over one hundred monks resting in glass coffins whose bodies have not decomposed. The Ukrainian Orthodox church believes this is a miracle and holds this site as sacred. During our tour, many pilgrims were paying homage to these saints.

After walking these historic sites, Father Nikolaj, director of public relations of the church, was gracious to spend an hour explaining the church and how it survived so many years under persecution and its present relevance to Ukrainian life.

In preparation for our 18 hour train ride from Kiev to Krakow, Poland, We stopped at MepaMarket, a local supermarket, to purchase provisions. As we clogged the aisles, the local shoppers became frustrated with our grocery store etiquette. We were surprised to see the cashiers seated at their registers leisurely scanning each item.

Off to the train station we went. After traveling over many crumbling roads, we were amazed to see a vast rail terminal. Our train car, while cramped, was moderately comfortable.

We leave Kiev with the hope that the coming generations will find the courage to make the crucial decisions that will help their country reach its true potential.

Submitted by:
Christine Ivory
Vernon Petersen
Jorge Suarez

International Trip Day 5 - The Transition of Ukraine and Class 41

In the year 2000, former President Bill Clinton gave a speech in Ukraine inspiring the people of this country to realize their tremendous potential. Twelve years later we find ourselves at the US Embassy in the city of Kyiv hearing both American and Ukrainian diplomats still discussing this unrealized potential. The definition of potential is: "having the capacity to develop into something in the future". This applies not only to Ukraine, but to us as leaders. Our second day in Kyiv highlighted the many challenges faced by the people of Ukraine while in transition from the Soviet dominated past into a uniquely Ukrainian future. An array of speakers at the Embassy discussed topics including: agriculture, politics, economics, and business, as well as national demographics. This included a question and answer session with the U.S. Ambassador to Ukraine, John Teft. The agenda organized by Ag Attaché Randall Hager was impressive. The U.S. Foreign Service staff was not only informative, but was also incredibly hospitable.





From there, we visited the Kyiv National Economic University where we met with students and faculty. It was a great opportunity to hear the thoughts and concerns of Ukraine\'s young people and their vision for the future of their country. It was inspiring to see the hope in their eyes and the pride in their country. To many of us, it was a shock to see the stark differences between University facilities in Kiyv and California. In spite of the lack of modern facilities, the caliber of students and their academic endeavors were extremely impressive and humbling.

We ended our day with a reception at our hotel with a number of guests including Ukrainian and American industry professionals and staff from the US Embassy. The reception provided us with a venue to continue dialogue, develop relationships, and create opportunities for future collaboration. As much as we learned about Ukraine this day, it has only aroused greater curiosity about the future of a twenty one year old country with 1200 year old roots.

Joey Mendonca     Cesar Hernandez    Stephanie Tillman